Friday, 18 January 2013

Singapore’s Islands of Food


It’s no secret that the most famous thing about Singapore is the food. But what many people don’t expect is the sheer diversity of it all. This is a reflection of Singapore itself. With four official languages and a whole host of dialects being spoken every day, Singapore is the ultimate mix of cultures. In fact they have a name for it; rojak. Meaning ‘mixture’ in Malay, rojak is also a very popular dish. Using the name of a type of food to describe the culture? How very Singaporean. Rojak is a fruit and vegetable salad and a must try food if you want to feel truly local.

Traditional Singaporean food begins at breakfast with a kopi and some kaya toast. Kaya is a local jam consisting of coconut, eggs and sugar. It is spread between two slices of white bread along with an almost alarmingly large chunk of butter. The toast is then dipped into a stirred mixture of soft boiled eggs, dark soya sauce and ground white pepper. There is simply no better way to start your day in Singapore.

When eating in Singapore it’s always important to think ahead. With more food than time, you should conserve and not fill up too much, especially at lunch. That’s why you should definitely go for some satay. Skewered beef or chicken cooked over a wood or charcoal fire for that extra smoky taste, dipped into satay sauce that’s not too spicy to exclude sensitive palates. It makes for a perfect summers day dish. Also good for lunch is Roti Prata. Roti prata, simply meaning ‘flat bread’ was originally just a flour based pancake cooked on a grill and then dipped into curry. It’s evolved over time to be a dish all of its own, with fillings such as onion, cheese and mushroom being added. A bowl of curry sauce will still be provided for your dipping pleasure. Those with bigger stomachs at lunchtime might want to have some laksa. Famous all over the world, this is actually a traditional Peranakan dish, so eating it in Singapore is eating it direct from the source.

Dinner in Singapore is when it’s time to really show off the famous local dishes. If you’re not on a diet make sure you try some char kway teow; flat rice noodle fried with lard. Another famous dish is Hainanese chicken rice. Known simply as chicken rice, Singapore’s second most famous dish is boiled chicken served with rice that’s been fried in chicken fat and then boiled in chicken broth. This mouth-watering dish has to be tasted to be believed. Although considered a national dish, chicken rice probably isn’t the most famous dish overseas. That honour has to go to Chilli Crab. Although chicken rice is the national dish, its origins are actually from China and has such become a local dish in many surrounding countries. Chilli crab however, is strictly Singaporean.  Chilli crab was invented in 1950 by drenching mud crabs in bottled tomato sauce and bottled chilli sauce. It wasn’t until the 1960s that it started to evolve, with eggs, vinegar, sambal, lemon juice and tomato paste being added. These new ingredients made the sauce thicker in texture and richer in taste. It’s this evolved style that Singaporeans and visitors to the country enjoy today. And despite the name, chilli crab isn’t actually that spicy, making it easier for those foreign taste buds that might not be able to handle too much spice. Once the crab has been devoured, make sure you soak up all the excess sauce with the fried bread rolls that are traditionally served with the chilli crab.

Where to find all this amazing food? The entire island is covered in places to eat. In fact if you name a dish to a local, chances are they’ll name a place on the island that serves the very best version of it. Of course, every local you ask will have their own idea of where the best place is. Although not a place associated with good food in the West, food courts in Singapore are not a bunch of stalls serving stale food from a bain-marie, all the food is cooked to order and they are a great place sample local food in an air-conditioned environment. The more traditional food court is the hawker centre. As hawker centres are outside you’ll have to do without the air-con but there’s no better place than a traditional hawker centre to sample the local fare. Satay, laksa, char kway teow can all be found in food courts and hawker centres all over Singapore. Chilli crab is more of a restaurant dish. It is on the menu of any restaurant selling local food or Singapore-style Chinese food but there are also restaurants where chilli crab is the speciality. You can always ask a local, but be prepared for the chance that the suggested restaurant could be on the other side of the island. There are also many districts with distinct flavours of their own. Head to Kampong Glam for the many Egyptian and Turkish restaurants than run along and around Arab St. Other districts to try are Chinatown and Little India. The food available there speaks for itself.

All these dishes only scrape the surface of what is available in Singapore. As you discover more of the island you will uncover an amazing amount of tantalising food.  


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