Friday 8 February 2013

In The Neighbourhood


Singapore’s multiculturalism has created a diverse country made up of many unique neighbourhoods, each offering something different, from the adventurous to the familiar. Whether you want to browse trendy stores in historic Chinese shophouses, smoke a shisha, explore spice markets or feel like a taste of home, there’s a neighbourhood in Singapore for you. 

Ann Siang Hill

Catch the MRT to Chinatown and wander south-east through the historic alleys and you will discover Ann Siang Hill. This small hill is named after the last person that owned it when it was still private land. The area has important historical significance as it was the place that early Chinese immigrants used to come to send letters home to their families. Many professional letter-writers and calligraphers set up shop here to service the illiterate immigrates that wanted to send letters home. Later, Ann Siang Hill became the home of many clans and secret societies, which is a tradition in Chinese culture, especially amongst Chinese not living in China. The shophouses they once inhabited have since been restored and now hosts bars, cafés and a wide variety of shops. If you’re looking for chain stores or boutiques selling well-known brands then you’ve come to the wrong place. Expect shops selling books, vintage toys and clothes, locally designed fashion and a boutique nursery selling upmarket and stylish cribs, cradles and toys. Ann Siang Hill is also home to many restaurants, but if you’re looking to save money, maybe head downhill to Maxwell Hawker Centre. From a reservation-only Japanese restaurant to French and Italian cuisine to a restaurant that screens movies after the meal, Ann Siang Hill is one of the best places to go for fine dining. Also make sure you try one of the many cafes serving world-class coffee, including a French patisserie and a Japanese café. With the classic architecture of the shophouses which date back to 1903, Ann Siang Hill is a beautiful place to spend an afternoon or evening.     

Kampong Glam

Known as the ‘Arab Quarter’, Kampong Glam has been a centre for Muslims in Singapore since before Sir Stamford Raffles first landed. Once home to the Malay aristocracy, Kampong Glam is now a thriving hub based around the large gold-domed Sultan Mosque. The current mosque has been there since 1928 and is one of the most well-known landmarks among Singaporeans. Explore the many streets and lanes surrounding the mosque and expect to find everything you’d expect in an Arab Quarter including textiles, carpets and perfumes. But if you find your way to Haji Lane you will find something a bit different. This long narrow stretch of beautifully restored and colourful shophouses is home to some of Singapore’s coolest shops. Browse boutiques selling clothes by local designers, furniture shops selling one-off pieces, a Tokyo Bike store, a shop selling skateboards and streetwear direct from New York City design houses and much more. At the end of Haji Lane is the best Mexican restaurant in Singapore. There are lots of other places to eat in the Arab Quarter, explore the streets and you’ll find all types of Middle Eastern food with an abundance of Egyptian restaurants. As this was a Malay village, it’s the perfect place to try some proper Malay food. Kampong Glam Café is extremely popular among locals but for something a bit more unique you need to try Zam Zam. They specialize is a dish called murtabak which is a prata stuffed with eggs, onion and meat. Having been here for over a century, they’ve really perfected their recipe. Kampong Glam is also home to French restaurants, Japanese restaurants and a Swedish restaurant at the end of Arab Street. As Haji Lane doesn’t get going until mid-afternoon, the area is best for a visit around dinner time. After dinner watch the alcoves of the old shophouses get covered in carpet and pillows ready for you to enjoy a shisha. Also known as a hookah, this is one of the main attractions of the Arab Quarter. Be aware that as this is the Muslim area many places don’t serve alcohol. However on the edge of the Quarter is Bali Lane which is lined with bars. To get here just take the MRT to Bugis. Once you’ve left the station just head towards the ‘Gotham City’ building and Kampong Glam will be on the other side. The area is an essential visit for anyone travelling to Singapore.

Little India

Prepare for an assault on the senses. Arriving by taxi in Little India on a Friday or Saturday night, watch as your driver gets angrier and angrier as the locals refuse to respect the difference between the footpath and the road. It’s quite an entertaining spectacle! But as this can take a long time and make the taxi fare higher than it should be a lot of people just take the MRT. It’s easy to forget you’re in Singapore when visiting Little India. The mark left by the majority Chinese population on the rest of Singapore is completely absent from Little India. You’ll feel like you’ve come to another country as the sights and smells transport you straight to India. Your first visit has to be Tekka Market. People from all over Singapore visit Tekka for its fresh meat, vegetables and spices. The main reason for tourists to visit Little India, apart from the atmosphere, is the shopping. With stores selling everything you can think of at very reasonable prices it’s a bargain hunter’s paradise, the epicentre of which is a 24 hour mall called the Mustafa Centre.  Go shopping at any time of night for jewellery, household appliances, books, CDs, DVDs, watches, electronics, footwear and clothing. If you can handle the chaos and the crowds, Mustafa is one of the best places in Singapore to grab a bargain. Little India is obviously the best place to go for Indian food but surprisingly it’s also home to a few popular French restaurants. So if you’re in the mood for French food, Little India is a good chance to experience in a totally different atmosphere.   

Holland Village

Holland Village sits approximately 6 kilometres (almost 4 miles) by car from Orchard Road. A centre for young Singaporeans and the expat community, Holland V, as it’s known to locals, is a great place for lunch and dinner, especially for kids. All the big restaurant chains from Singapore have a presence here, as well as the Australian restaurant chain Crust Pizza. As the roads are closed Holland V really does have a village feel to it. Come for dinner on a Sunday evening and the streets will be full of kids running around and riding scooters creating a very family friendly atmosphere. After bed time though Holland V is a great place to go for a drink with the many bars and closed off streets creating a relaxed but exciting environment. Since 2011 Holland V has had its own MRT station but as it’s on the Circle Line it’s much quicker to come by bus or taxi.

Dempsey Hill

Originally a British military barracks, Dempsey Hill holds special memories to all middle aged Singaporean men, as it was here they reported for the start of their national military service in the 1970s. All that remains of the military past are the buildings, which have all been converted into restaurants, art galleries and antique stores. Dempsey is essentially a dining destination, with the only shopping being art and furniture. This makes it popular with newly landed expats looking for western food and decorations for home.  The restaurants include Italian cuisine, Mexican, Korean BBQ and an American burger place, complete with a crazy challenge to eat a burger too large for anyone sane. Fine dining is represented by The White Rabbit, a restaurant serving European food housed in an old chapel. Reservations are essential. Dempsey is a very popular day spot, especially on Sunday as it’s a great place for breakfast as well as lunch. To get here you can take a bus but a taxi would be more convenient as you won’t have to walk up the hill. 

When staying in Singapore it’s easy to get stuck in the main centres of Orchard Rd and Marina Bay, but luckily the excellent transport system makes it easy to explore more outlying areas which will give you a much more memorable holiday experience.    

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